2. KEEPING OF THE LARVAE:
Dynastes hercules septentrionalis L3, 50 grams
Keeping the larvae together is possible, but the containers usually are too big, because you need about 10 litre. substrate per larvae. Although the larvae do not seem cannibalistic, sometimes they hurt each other. This usually happens during the moulting process, when the larvae is soft and vulnerable. Because I am one of those persons, who like to control everything (haha, maybe lazy would be a better expression), I am sometimes bothered by keeping the larvae together, especially when they start pupating because one easily loses the overview and sometimes some of your larvae....
A much better method was introduced to me by H. Snuverink (Thank you), I am keeping my larvae in the same way now, and can frankly tell you, that it is easy, secure, and last but not least room saving (That should make every breeder who keeps more than a few species happy). I am keeping the larvae separated in 4 litre containers. The Advantage: You can watch after every single larvae, changing substrate can be done individually and you need less substrate. for the case the larvae feeds on leaves or wood, you can refill what is missing... In addition to these facts it easyfies keeping male and female larvae under different conditions. You need to do that, for instance when the males need a longer period to hatch and females develop faster. (You want to know more? Please read the C. caucasus breeding report). A sufficient number of larvae gives you the space for experiments,. So, for instance, Horse dung is said to lead to good results in imago size of Dynastinae, so far I did not check on that..
The only disadvantage of this box system comes out, when the larvae want to pupate. At that time they weigh 80 grams to 130 grams (in Dynastes hercules). Now we need bigger boxes, about 10 to 20 litre per box is ok. By the way, the bigger boxes are only necessary for male larvae, while females pupate without any problem in the 4 litre boxes... You can place the larvae in the bigger containers, when they start moving around, their colour is getting yellowish and they stop feeding. After the change, the larvae usually start pupating very fast. The place they chose is almost always on the bottom of the container, so you can easily observe them. It is important to take care that the substrate during pupation is not too wet, or too dry. I recommend to keep the pupae slightly drier than the larvae. Please take also care that there are now earthworms in the substrate, because they feed on the substrate, thicken it, it gets more moist and sometimes they just destroy the pupation chamber, and that usually means the death of your pupa.
If for some reason the pupation chamber inflates, you can try to build a new one for the pupae. I heard of successful hatch outs from chambers build of clay, but people tend to build the chambers out of flower setting foam (A green mass out of which you can form almost everything.). The Chamber should be formed like the chambers the larvae build for themselves. I think it is better to try not to lose the original pupation chamber.
After the larvae build their chambers, all you have to do is wait. Until the beetle hatches out, it takes up to 3 months (pupation after 4 weeks, pupae to beetles after up to 2 months.)
If you are lazy, you make only few wholes for ventilation in the container, so that one does not have to check the moisture. If you are like me, please take care about the right moisture when filling the containers, afterwards, it will be difficult, to get it more dry or moist.
A big advantage of keeping the larvae separated, especially since this year, is the fact that diseases (Please see Diseases) do not spread that easy.
This method might be a little more difficult in the beginning (because you have to learn about the right moisture, etc.), but tends to be a lot easier after some time, and you don't need that much time for your larvae...
5. List of Subspecies and their differences
6. Weight Scales and Conclusion
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